19 yrs old...car hunting...a lil help? :D

Discussion in 'Et Cetera, Et Cetera' started by hottxboi16, Sep 28, 2006.

  1. hottxboi16

    hottxboi16 Member

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    So yeah basically you could say im a n00b at car hunting hahhah i dont know much about them but ive been looking for the past month at cars...so ive learned soooooome

    but yeah the two cars im looking at are a

    98 mitsubishi eclipse spyder GS
    its 3100 obo and has 97k miles, one owner who has done regular matienence like oil changes and stuff...im gonna go take a look at it tomorrow hopefully

    the other car is a 99 ford escort zx2 and has 100k miles and is 2500...it looks clean im going to look at it tomorrow as well however i dont know its history and i was told the escorts are cheap cars...

    the thing im worried about with the bishi is that i hear they are expensive to insure, but i couldnt get a figure and the word expensive is relative to who is saying it so saying that doesnt help....

    but yeah from what i hear they are pretty expensive to insure and im not sure if id want to dish that kind of money out....however it does seem to be in better condition than the ford

    any idea how many miles each of them get and such
     
  2. davidjh7

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    Personally, I would try and have a mechanic, prefereably someone you or your family knows well, take a look at them. Anything with any hint of being a "sports" car, will have higher insurance rates, sometimes significantly, which can be a money breaker more than the cost of the car. When cars get around 100,000 mils, significant things start breaking down from being worn out---brakes, suspensions, engines, drive trains, etc. Your best bet is having a knowledgeable person go with you. If they see it as a decent value, take it for what it is worth. Beyond that, go for what you can afford that makes you happy--and afford includes ALL the costs. Good Luck!
     
  3. BlackCock85

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    Well given those two choices I'd go with the Mitsu over the Ford. That being said, since this is your first car, I would advise you to look at Toyota/Honda, preferable Toyotas. Starting out you would like to have a car with as little trouble as possible and a Toyota would be a nice dependable car. I dont even want to get into all the problems that plague fords/american cars in general. Mitsu's arent the most reliable car either and dont have the fit and finish of a Toyota. In the end it's your decision but def make sure to have a mechanic check out the car before getting it. The less miles there are on a car the better it is for you. A good site to help you would be kbb.com On this site you could make sure you're getting the car for a reasonable price. Good Look with your car hunting :smile:
     
  4. AlteredEgo

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    Yeeeah. What he said.

    And get the history of the vehicle third party verified. All you need is the VIN. It should be on the windshield, on the drivers side. If it isn't anywhere on the windshield, the odds are that is NOT that cars first windshield. I would get a used car that had some repaired damage depending on what the damage is. But everyone I know who's gotten a car with a replaced windshield had lots of problems, including one friend whose mechanic showed her that the windshield wasn't even glued on!

    Start the car and look at all of the warning lights as they disappear. Did the check engine light come on? If not, the owner may have disconnected it. Turn the engine off and check it one more time. If the check engine light doesn't come on at all, hesitate. (And by hesitate I mean keep looking at other cars.)

    Have you ever been insured before? When you're poking around looking for quotes, make sure the companies are actually willing to insure you! I had a hard time getting my first policy, despite a crystal clear record, despite being female, despite all my other low-risk factors.

    When you sit in the car, drive it around, do not listen to the radio. Listen to the car. How does it sound in drive, reverse, idle? How does it feel idle? They claim the change the oil? Is there a little reminder sticker with the date and mileage in the car? WHat color is the oil? (Have a look!) At a minimum, I'm assuming you can check fluids. Check them! Are they at the right levels? Are they clean? If so, it's no guarantee of a regularly maintained car. But if not, not even when trying to sell, this is not a well-maintained car.

    That's all I can think of right now. Hope it helps. But yeah. Take a knowledgable person to see the car, and get a third-party report (carfax comes to mind).
     
  5. Damiaen Michaels

    Damiaen Michaels New Member

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    Personally, I say screw cars and go with a truck. Not sure if you are in Northern Texas (they get snow there alot it seems....near Amarillo), but neither one of those cars will drive in the snow.....and trucks are just plain awesome.

    Can ya tell I am a truck fan?

    Rock on,

    Damiaen
    Fellow Texan
     
  6. BlackCock85

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    And the poor kid wont even be able to feed himself because he'll be too busy feeding gas to his car. I'd say stay away from a truck the first time around since you're not used to all that comes with owning a car.
     
  7. transformer_99

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    I vote a truck too ! FWD cars need cv joints, RWD vehicles are the way to go. As for mileage, anything with a manual transmission with that many miles on it is ready for a new clutch. Judging by age and price you look like you're on a budget around $ 3K. Look hard enough and don't preclude other makes and models, sometimes you find lower mileage vehicles for a bargain.
     
  8. transformer_99

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    Not necessarily, 4 cylinder trucks are relatively economical in fuel consumption. They won't get what an Escort will, but the Ranger XLT will get 22-24/27-29 city/highway. That's not too bad. I could see if the truck were to be a V-8 or V-10 where it would fuel economy would be terrible. Now adays, the V-6 gives you decent fuel economy with ample power, the 4 cylinder trucks are stronger too and get a little better mpg.
     
  9. B_NineInchCock_160IQ

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    I wouldn't buy either of those cars but that's me. As far as insurance goes... unless Texas is weird I doubt very much that the Mitsubishi would be substantially more money to insure just because it's a Mitsubishi. There is a lot of false information out there about what makes a car more or less expensive to get insurance for. Insurance companies will look at the value of the car (which matters less than you might think), they'll consider your driving record, the deductible you want to pay, what zip code you live in, and a few other factors. Easy way to find out: go to Progressive.com or eSurance.com or any other car insurance website, and go through the process of applying. If you have all the information in order you'll get a pretty accurate quote at the end. Then you'll know exactly.
    Some companies give discounts for students in good standing if you're still in school, and most give discounts for membership in certain organizations (AAA, Navy Federal Credit Union, Mensa, hundreds of others)
     
  10. B_NineInchCock_160IQ

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    My '94 Chevy Lumina was a terrific car that I drove to 175,000 miles and never had to replace a thing on that wasn't a normal wear part except for the alternator once. I've had one major problem with my '99 Dodge Viper RT/10 that I think was related to aftermarket work done on it by the previous owner but other than that I've only had a few minor electrical issues. I had just as many problems with my first car- a '92 Honda Accord.
    I hate Japanese cars, and the myth that American engines won't make it to 150,000 miles without blowing up is just that.
     
  11. mindseye

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    I can definitely vouch for CarFax -- they have a basic plan that lets you view car histories for as many cars as you want to check out in a 30-day period for $25. It's a good deal, and worth the peace of mind.

    Given that these cars are eight and nine years old, they'll have a LOT of history, so you're getting plenty of information for the money.

    (Caveat: Once you sign up for the basic plan, they try to get you to buy these extra upgrades, which are junk.)
     
  12. dolf250

    dolf250 New Member

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    First off, stay away from trucks unless you need one (and I would bet that you do not.) This is the voice of experience. I love trucks, own two and live in redneck country (that automatically qualifies it as a necessity.) Even if you get one that gets “not too bad” millage you will curb your driving. One of the reasons to get a care is to escape town and explore, not just transportation. At your age you have better things to spend $$$ on that supporting Exon.
    Do no t just look at the initial purchase price; that is a VERY small part of the overall expense of owning a car. Get one in the best shape that you can. Do run a history report (lots of people and dealers will replace the odometer with one with lower millage from a wrecker.) If they have the maintenance records, even better. Try to stay away from “curbers,” people who buy at auction and the resell without owning it for more than a week. Make sure the registration is in their name.
    Now the mechanical- do not trust VERY clean oil. Some people will change the oil when selling a car to hide the metal chips (shavings from the bearings.) If the oil is a little dirty run the engine and pull the dipstick- if you see or feel (yes, feel it) metal particles run like hell!
    Have the mechanic (or a friend) check how much more adjustment is left on the clutch (if there is no more adjustment and the pedal is near the floor plan on 3-600 for a new clutch.) Have the mechanic or a friend check the front end. Jack up a front tire and wiggle it. If there is play up and down; ball joint. If there is play horizontally then check to see if a tie rod end is shot. Both are easy fixes, but if you cannot do it yourself they can be a little pricey. I redid my mothers front end a few years back for $300, the shop had quoted her $1200.
    Also, have the brakes and exhaust checked. Both run a few hundred dollars depending on exactly what is wrong. Look for leaks and assess them. A leak off the valve cover, no problem. A leak out of the back of the engine? A main seal and likely damned expensive.
    Finally, listen to the engine. Any knocks are bad. Start it when COLD and look for the exhaust pipe pushing blue (not the end of the world, but it will never get better on its own- I have tried.) If you can have a compression test done it is worth it. The spark plugs come out and a gage goes in. It will tell you the condition of the engine in general. If a cylinder is supposed to have 110 psi compression and it has 80 you need to worry.
    Well, this is turning into a book. If you have any other questions feel free to PM me and I will try to answer them.
     
  13. dolf250

    dolf250 New Member

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    I agree. I have an Areostar (yes, I hate FORD) that has been problem free. Bought it with 225 KM on it and now have well over 350KM. Replaced 2 CV shafts, brakes and a thermostat. Engine still only consumes 1 liter per 5000KM and the tranny is good. It is on its way out as the body is going and the exhaust and yes, a ball joint. It is just too old to sink cash into when I have 4 other cars in better shape. (Yes, I know I need to get rid of a few, but can't seem to do so.)
     
  14. vindicari

    vindicari Member

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    Toyotas go on forever ive had four camry,s last one had 278,000 miles on it and was still goin when i got rid of it for a new one. Parts can be expensive but the only thing ive ever had to buy were the usual bits that wear out on all cars, timing belt, tyres, oil filter , brakes. Some bad points to look for on buying a used car apart from rust and damage, pop the bonnet (hood) look for any oil in the engine bay or below the engine, take off the oil filler cap and look inside it any grey gunge indicates water leaking into the oil (a gasket is gone somewhere) look for rust behind the radiator check the cv joints and boots, check for movement in the front wheels by rocking the wheel back and forward there should be no movement. check steering wheel with engine off again there should be no movement (any movement indicates steering linkage probs or faulty suspension bushes) finally start the engine and listen for ticking (like a clock) indicates worn cams or big end bushes. soot coming from the exhaust, there are a multitude of things to look for best bet is to take a mechanic with you. However the above is a simple list of obvious but potentially serious and expensive faults to fix.
     
  15. dong20

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    FWIW, I'd suggest when you find what you like - get an insurance quote before you sign on the dotted or hand over the readies, just speaking from previous experience of getting insurance at 19 on a car that a 19 yo would want!!!

    Everything else is personal choice and only you can exercise that.
     
  16. B_NineInchCock_160IQ

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    hm, ironically, the Ford Aerostar that my parents had went through something like five or six transmissions. Haha. Bad example. Though I heard in comsumer reports apparently the Aerostars from the model year AFTER the one that my parents bought were apparently much more reliable and better built.

    My Viper's got 53,000 miles on it and I couldn't be happier with it. But I wouldn't really advise getting one of those for your first car.
     
  17. BlackCock85

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    As if you have a Viper, you lucky bastard.
     
  18. D_Elijah_MorganWood

    D_Elijah_MorganWood New Member

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    One really nice thing to have is ABS. If either car has it, I'd let it swing the vote, all other factors being fairly equal. Get the car checked out by a reputable mechanic. The money you spnd doing this will far outweigh the car repairs you face if you buy a clunker. I've driven almost all foriegn cars and the results are surprising. The most reliable car was my Mustang GT. The least reliable and by far most expensive to own has been my 7 Series BMW (which is a fucking dream to drive!). Years ago I had a Del Sol SI. It was fun to drive, reliable and got 35mpg.

    If I had to pick between the two, I'd pick the Eclipse but that's just personal preference.
     
  19. D_Adoniah Sheervolume

    D_Adoniah Sheervolume Account Disabled

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    ok, this is something i know a LOT about...

    first off: the guy who has the troublefree aerostar has been VERY VERY lucky--they're widely known to have transmission, a/c and other problem rates way higher than average.

    second: if the vehicle's not that expensive (under $5k), consider just getting liability insurance. you won't be covered to repair or replace your car if it's in an accident or stolen, but the premiums will be a lot lower. if you finance the car, the bank will require comprehensive & collision insurance to protect its investment.

    third: the escort coupe you're considering is a good little car. it has a peppy & economical mazda drivetrain (think protege), handles well, is simple/cheap to work on, and escorts look surprisingly good here in salty new england, which speaks well for their rustproofing and general body integrity. the mitsu just isn't as dependable, and since eclipses are popular with young men like you, they've often led hard lives.

    fourth: go to the library and get the april issue of consumer reports, which is their big automobile round-up. in it you will see reliability rankings, as well as a number of tips on what to look for in a test drive. i buy one every year, and keep them for future reference.

    the reliability rankings include all the major areas of a car, and how a car scores in that particular area. these can be good talking points with the prior owner ("have you had any a/c work done recently on your aerostar...?").

    fifth: i'm going to say something others might not agree with, but: get a car with as nice a body and interior as possible for the money. a good running, ugly car is worth nothing should a big mechanical problem occur, but a good looking dead car is at least worth something for body parts, and might appeal to someone interested in fixing it up.


    feel free to pm me--i'll get you some articles that will help in your search.

    signed,
    the fag who knows a ton about cars, has owned over 25 of them, plus countless scooters/motorcycles, and whose dad was an automotive engineer. :)

    p.s. for everyone, here are the questions i always ask an owner when responding to a car ad, either online or in print:

    1) how long have you had it, and how many miles did it have when you bought it;
    2) has it ever been in an accident and/or had any paintwork;
    3) what kind of work has been done to the car in the last few years ("the more you've done the less i'll have to, so don't be bashful!");
    4) how would you rate the interior and exterior conditions, with 10 being NEW, and 1 being...crap? :) (don't expect perfection for less expensive cars, and let them know you don't, just that you're trying to get a good idea of its overall condition)
    5) what does the car need to be "perfect;" (this is a great catch-all question. if they say "nothing," ask: "nothing? a/c and heat work fine? all power windows/sunroof working? tires good? brakes? doesn't go one way or the other driving straight down the road? jogging their memories like this can elicit responses they might not make if you didn't dig. always ask the question, even if their ad says all they've done to the car--any inconsistencies could be red flags)
    6) ask them to email photos of the driver's seat (the one most likely to be worn), as well as ones of any exterior and/or interior flaws.

    happy car hunting!
     
  20. B_NineInchCock_160IQ

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    The couple of guys I know who drive tow trucks for a living have told me never to buy a BMW, apparently they pick them up all the time.
     
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