*** A Surfing Thread ***

Discussion in 'Et Cetera, Et Cetera' started by faceking, Dec 10, 2008.

  1. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    Curious... and I recall a post a few years back (couldn't find it). On surfers in these parts.

    Here in NorCal the winter swell is up... Mavericks kicked off (w/out a sponsor though).

    Mavs, Steamers, OB have had some CRAZY days (most I missed... out of country) in December already.

    East Coast is East Coast.. sorry. But seems like things are starting off well for the Northern Hemi....
     
  2. surferboy

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    *enthusiastically jumps in this topic*

    did someone say surfing?! been surfing since i was three, and i'm from o'ahu! i'm half hawaiian, so i'm of the peoples who invented the sport! which, by the way, was the first and only sport created by mankind with the sole purpose of having fun. well, until recently when the haoles on the mainland realized they can make a lot of money by having surf comps. duke kahanamoku's gift of surfing to the world was both a good and a bad thing, imo.

    unfortunately, i now currently live in hell....err...i mean, florida. back home, there was usually a swell goin off somewhere on the island, yah? down here, you literally have for pray for surf!
     
  3. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    lordy... are you pulling the "Hawai'ian trash" card out already???

    please don't.....

    it's the chip on the shoulders of the "alleged Hawai'ans" on the islands, who at BEST are 25% Hawai'ian (vs mixes of mostly Asian, and in a best attempt some other Pacific Islander hope), in reality, pulling the haole card.

    there are a few spots on the Big Isle, and Oahu... I affectionately call "Alabama Island"... AKA Trash.
     
  4. surferboy

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    no, i wasn't, so don't jump to conclusions. secondly, i'm half hawaiian. my grandpa on my dad's side, and my grandpa on my mom's side are both 100% hawaiian, which is admittedly, very rare. both my parents are half, which makes me half. so, let's stop the negativity, yah? this is supposed for be one thread about the awesomeness of the surf culture, yah?
     
  5. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    alright... let's try again...

    quick knocking Florida surfing (last I checked... the greatest surfer isn't from the isles, but your backyard), white ppl (b'ball was invented by a white dude, and last I checked the NBA....), and why Hawai'i is the only place worthy (I'll stack Mavs up against Waimea).

    agree?
     
  6. surferboy

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    but what determines world's best, yah? and you have for agree, florida doesn't have the best surf. like i said, back home, there was always a swell goin off. down here, decent swells don't come around too often.
     
  7. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    but you take what you can get, no?

    these parts last week: http://images.magicseaweed.com/photoLab/83488.jpg

    we are about 4ft every 15 seconds now.

    BUT.

    BUT


    8 feet come Friday... with 11 foot on Monday midday.
     
  8. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    P.S. that is one anger fucker...
     
  9. D_Fiona_Farvel

    D_Fiona_Farvel Account Disabled

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    Srsly, like the angriest surfer evar.
    I can't contribute, tho. Boogie board, yeah, surf, no - but I always wanted to try some tow-in surfing a la Laird Hamilton. Carry on. :)
     
  10. transformer_99

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    Been a FL surfer all my life and fortunately was raised in Daytona Beach/New Smyrna Beach Inlet area. Outside of that, really haven't surfed much West Coast. I did surf Huntington Pier and found it no better than a mediocre day surfing Central and North Florida. I actually think Sunglow Pier in Port Orange, FL is a better ride than I got the week in California, it sure isn't as crowded. Huntington was small anyway that week, so the comparison was based upon that.

    Sunglow Pier Surf Camera, Surf Travel Info and Photos - Surfline

    On the right day, Ponce Inlet and New Smyrna (NSB) have the best surf for me. A hurricane's pre storm and aftermatch can bring double overhead washing machine action, but a West wind can clean it up and provide a couple of days worth of the most ideal surf you could ask for.

    Ideally, chest to just overhead is perfect. You aren't risking drowning in undertows or simply being grinded/punded into the sand bar (or reef, if you surf those type of breaks).

    http://farm1.static.flickr.com/54/144455160_4cbcd2f1b1.jpg
    http://www.easternsurf.com/photos/nsb_gorkinseq_jimbo.jpg
    New Smyrna Beach Surf Camera, Surf Travel Info and Photos - Surfline

    Here's my favorite spot, right next to the Ponce Inlet Jetty. You can virtually walk out and catch chest/head high surf and ride for a few hundred yards:

    Ponce Inlet Surf Travel Info and Photos - Surfline

    Ponce Inlet gets a rebound effect off the Jetty, ground swellcomes intowards the jetty from the Northeast and the jetty channels it back northward and it's a faster longer "right" ride/wave. Water isn't Carribean clear, nor Pacific Island clear, but still clean water.

    Having been a local, there are a few of us that pretty much share the rides by the jetty rocks. NSB is a free for all, better be good to get waves there, everyone from Orlando, FL drives over and when the surf is only 1 to an occasional 3 footer on the face, it's even harder. But one of those pics shows that you can get air if you know what you're doing.

    This place is the northsdie of St Augustine, FL (Vilano Beach)

    Vilano Surf Travel Info and Photos - Surfline

    Back to NSB though, not only can the surf be challengingly small, it's has plenty of other challenges:

    He's behind you! The moment a 6ft shark leapt from the water just yards from surfers | Mail Online

    I once saw a young surfer get attacked and bitten as we were riding the same wave one summer day. It popped thru the wave and basically bit him from his thigh to shin on his trailing leg. It happened so quickly, I recall passing by him, because he cut me off on a pretty clean waist high long peeler of a wave, looking back and seeing the shark still biting him. The surfer basically threw a flurry of punches as he was standing on the sandbar in around knee deep water. The shark let go and swam off into deep water. But after that ordeal, we both went to shore and that kid beat me to shore, understandably so. He was ok once on shore, injuries were more puncture wounds from the teeth, nothing requiring stitches from what I saw, so the shark never really took flesh.
     
  11. transformer_99

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    Perhaps, arguably for both genders ? Lisa Andersen (mid to late 90's, she stopped competition as a champion) and Kelly Slater (still going strong, even after Baywatch) ?

    Roxy's four-time World Champion Lisa Andersen weds...
     
  12. PornForPatric

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    For various reasons, I haven't surfed in...jeez, 13 years! Definitely don't knock the Florida surf. Yes, it is...infrequent, but it still can be good. There are good spots in Palm Beach, a couple in Broward and up by the Cape.

    Some of my Fort Lauderdale surf photos:

    14CT Surf Life - a set on Flickr
     
  13. D_Ivana Dickenside

    D_Ivana Dickenside New Member

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    the last time i attempted to ride the waves my boobs popped out of my top in front of a group of 15 year old boys. sooo embarassing!
     
  14. curious n str8

    curious n str8 New Member

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  15. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    thank you...

    I think it drives a lot of surfer old school purists crazy that Kelly is even beyond Jordan or Tiger, in terms of sport dominance... and from Florida.

    Kinda like an San Francisco Bay Area guy named Jeff Gordon owning NASCAR.

    No Hawai'ian or SoCal or Aussie.. but a guy from the pissant low surf of Florida ruling the roost.

    Well... not the cowboy surf... Kelly , unlike his brother, is a little biotch on the big timey stuff... but why risk it?
     
  16. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    for what it's worth...

    headed to

























    JBAY in a couple weeks.
     
  17. faceking

    faceking Active Member

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    Tow-in = boooooooooooo

    Second.. did they blast the cliff for that???

    Speaking of AK... I've known the Kobuk Valley (near the Bering Strait of all places) to post 70 degrees in the summer, and certain spots in the inlet to produce some output.... never made it up there... but still top of mind.
     
  18. transformer_99

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    I think this is when the old school purists went crazy ? Up thru the 70's you had single fin, then MTB came out with the rocket pin stinger with 2 fins, later squash tail thrusters with 3 fins. Performance long boards with multi-fin systems ?

    The "aerial", pioneered and became common. Holman, Potter & Fletcher.

    How to Complete an Aerial
     
  19. Flashy

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    hmmmm...NorCal surfing...

    big waves, fog, freezing cold water, serious tides, and big white sharks.

    Salmon Creek, Montara, Davenport, Ano Nuevo...

    beautiful beaches, where you can find seals with their heads bitten off washed up on the beach.

    come surf the red triangle...what was that huge boil in the water just 15 feet away from me?

    no thanks :biggrin1:
     
  20. Flashy

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