Hi guys. This is my first post in a while. I posted ages ago but have been lurking since and thought I'd make my come-back post a helpful one.
A lot guys wonder if buying one of those "pocket pussies" is worth it.
Let me tell you, the majority of them out there are a complete rip-off and
you're better off making it yourself.
Why? Because commercial ones use crappy material, and are too "open" with not enough texture. They don't simulate the feel of a woman well at all.
While the alternative is more expensive, the experience, take it from me, is
much more intense and realistic. While nothing is as good as the real thing,
I think the design I've come up with is 80% there.
What you will need:
The Material: It is called Gel Elastomer. Not sure what that is?
When you were a kid, did you ever play with those "sticky hand" toys?
Same stuff, only softer. Extremely high elasticity, can accommodate ANY girth without tearing (sometimes tiny tears, but they don't get bigger)
You can get it from chemical and special effects suppliers. It is 100% safe
and non-toxic.
In my country (Australia) I was unable to find more after my initial supplier
closed, and finding it is not easy. After some searching I found a chemical
supply company in the U.S. that will sell you a minimum amount of 48 pounds at a price of $192.00. Sounds expensive but believe me, the pleasure is worth it. The place is Northstar Polymers is a manufacturer of polyurethane resins.
The product you want to order is MCG-1
Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. The good thing about this material, is if you make a mistake, you can melt it back down and re-cast it.
The Cast: If you're a good sculptor, you can get creative with clay and
make the entire inside anatomically correct, but that isn't needed for it to
be good. I used a 12 inch tall x 12 around pasta container.
Glass is best because you can see where the thread rod is when you try to position it for casting. One of the problems with the
commercial toys is that they are "sleeves" and so there isn't a tight resistance from the walls because they are too thin, so make sure your container is at least 10" around.
Tools: a 2mm thread rod (from any hardware store)
a stick of piece of cut wood to bind to the rod
Some string
The Process:
Pre-heat the container if you're using glass. Pour hot water into it and let it
sit for 5 minutes. Now pour boiling water into it. Don't pour out the hot-water. Let it sit for 5 minutes. Now pour a second lot of boiling water
in. Let it sit for 1 minute.
Pour out the boiling water and pour in your Gel, which you should have prepared first (following the maker's instructions)
Gel note: If your gel requires heating, follow the instructions strictly or you
might burn it, which creates all kind of problems. As a general rule for Gel elastomer, keep the heat low and keep stirring until it becomes clear and
liquid.
Tie the stick to the thread rod in a crucifix formation, with the stick forming
the horizontal part of the crucifix. The rod will hang inside the container, and the stick will stop it falling to the bottom or to the side. Make sure you
measure the part of the rod that is inside the container, this will be how deep the passage in the toy will be. Adjust according to your requirements.
If you want a toy with a dead end (creating a slight suction effect when you penetrate) then leave at least 3 inches of room between the bottom of the container, and the end of the rod. If you want an open ended one, just
let it hit the bottom.
Now position the stick-rod crucifix in a position thats in the center of the container, and tape the edges of the stick to the side of the container to
keep it in place.
If bubbles rise from the thread rod, leave it for a while. If a lot of them gather at the top and are not bursting, pop them with a skewer.
You might have to stand there doing it for a while. It's important that the top of the toy doesn't set with bubbles in it, or you will have to cut that part off and may lose 1-2 inches in depth.
It will take 24 hours to set properly (resist the urge to remove it before then, as it may seem solid on the outside, but will have a liquid core.)
Be careful when you remove the thread rod. Don't just yank it out, or you
might tear the corrugations created by the thread on the rod.
Instead pull the walls of the toy off the rod, when you get 3/4 of the way in and its more free, you can slowly pull it then.
Don't be too afraid, its VERY tough material but also very soft.
It has what chemical experts call "shape memory" meaning its very hard stretch out of shape unless you're using extreme heat on it.
When you use lube with it, put the lube inside instead of on your dick.
Just seems to work better. You can also soak it in hot water. This makes it softer and more realistic. If the toy gets cold, always soak it in hot water or just let it warm in a warm room. If you use it when its cold, it will warm
up because your dick is in it, but it has a "hard" feeling until it warms up.
I don't recommend using vaseline. It doesn't work well with this material.
The best lubes are the water-based surgical gels. I've found those to give
the most realistic feel.
If the process was at all confusing I have a more precise instruction file if
anyone wants it.
Cheers.
A lot guys wonder if buying one of those "pocket pussies" is worth it.
Let me tell you, the majority of them out there are a complete rip-off and
you're better off making it yourself.
Why? Because commercial ones use crappy material, and are too "open" with not enough texture. They don't simulate the feel of a woman well at all.
While the alternative is more expensive, the experience, take it from me, is
much more intense and realistic. While nothing is as good as the real thing,
I think the design I've come up with is 80% there.
What you will need:
The Material: It is called Gel Elastomer. Not sure what that is?
When you were a kid, did you ever play with those "sticky hand" toys?
Same stuff, only softer. Extremely high elasticity, can accommodate ANY girth without tearing (sometimes tiny tears, but they don't get bigger)
You can get it from chemical and special effects suppliers. It is 100% safe
and non-toxic.
In my country (Australia) I was unable to find more after my initial supplier
closed, and finding it is not easy. After some searching I found a chemical
supply company in the U.S. that will sell you a minimum amount of 48 pounds at a price of $192.00. Sounds expensive but believe me, the pleasure is worth it. The place is Northstar Polymers is a manufacturer of polyurethane resins.
The product you want to order is MCG-1
Make sure you follow the instructions carefully. The good thing about this material, is if you make a mistake, you can melt it back down and re-cast it.
The Cast: If you're a good sculptor, you can get creative with clay and
make the entire inside anatomically correct, but that isn't needed for it to
be good. I used a 12 inch tall x 12 around pasta container.
Glass is best because you can see where the thread rod is when you try to position it for casting. One of the problems with the
commercial toys is that they are "sleeves" and so there isn't a tight resistance from the walls because they are too thin, so make sure your container is at least 10" around.
Tools: a 2mm thread rod (from any hardware store)
a stick of piece of cut wood to bind to the rod
Some string
The Process:
Pre-heat the container if you're using glass. Pour hot water into it and let it
sit for 5 minutes. Now pour boiling water into it. Don't pour out the hot-water. Let it sit for 5 minutes. Now pour a second lot of boiling water
in. Let it sit for 1 minute.
Pour out the boiling water and pour in your Gel, which you should have prepared first (following the maker's instructions)
Gel note: If your gel requires heating, follow the instructions strictly or you
might burn it, which creates all kind of problems. As a general rule for Gel elastomer, keep the heat low and keep stirring until it becomes clear and
liquid.
Tie the stick to the thread rod in a crucifix formation, with the stick forming
the horizontal part of the crucifix. The rod will hang inside the container, and the stick will stop it falling to the bottom or to the side. Make sure you
measure the part of the rod that is inside the container, this will be how deep the passage in the toy will be. Adjust according to your requirements.
If you want a toy with a dead end (creating a slight suction effect when you penetrate) then leave at least 3 inches of room between the bottom of the container, and the end of the rod. If you want an open ended one, just
let it hit the bottom.
Now position the stick-rod crucifix in a position thats in the center of the container, and tape the edges of the stick to the side of the container to
keep it in place.
If bubbles rise from the thread rod, leave it for a while. If a lot of them gather at the top and are not bursting, pop them with a skewer.
You might have to stand there doing it for a while. It's important that the top of the toy doesn't set with bubbles in it, or you will have to cut that part off and may lose 1-2 inches in depth.
It will take 24 hours to set properly (resist the urge to remove it before then, as it may seem solid on the outside, but will have a liquid core.)
Be careful when you remove the thread rod. Don't just yank it out, or you
might tear the corrugations created by the thread on the rod.
Instead pull the walls of the toy off the rod, when you get 3/4 of the way in and its more free, you can slowly pull it then.
Don't be too afraid, its VERY tough material but also very soft.
It has what chemical experts call "shape memory" meaning its very hard stretch out of shape unless you're using extreme heat on it.
When you use lube with it, put the lube inside instead of on your dick.
Just seems to work better. You can also soak it in hot water. This makes it softer and more realistic. If the toy gets cold, always soak it in hot water or just let it warm in a warm room. If you use it when its cold, it will warm
up because your dick is in it, but it has a "hard" feeling until it warms up.
I don't recommend using vaseline. It doesn't work well with this material.
The best lubes are the water-based surgical gels. I've found those to give
the most realistic feel.
If the process was at all confusing I have a more precise instruction file if
anyone wants it.
Cheers.
