I did too! except it was at a goodyear, they said I needed a new air filter but my car was still having the same problems after they replaced it.
oil change
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I did too! except it was at a goodyear, they said I needed a new air filter but my car was still having the same problems after they replaced it.
jfrsndvs
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I always do my own oil changes that way I know that it was done right, I have never trusted one of those quick lube places, not only do they try to rip you off trying to sell you something that you do not need.
another thing that I alway do is use OEM filters, especially on my new truck, mainly due to the warrenty on it, but I also know that it's the right filter for the truck.
but no matter what, it's always best to change the filter with the oil in it, if you do not, the oil that is remaining in the old filter will mix with the new oil that you put it, and really what would be the point of oil change if the old oil is still mixed in there.
another thing that I alway do is use OEM filters, especially on my new truck, mainly due to the warrenty on it, but I also know that it's the right filter for the truck.
but no matter what, it's always best to change the filter with the oil in it, if you do not, the oil that is remaining in the old filter will mix with the new oil that you put it, and really what would be the point of oil change if the old oil is still mixed in there.
transformer_99
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True, the proper word to use is "regardless", I quoted another. "Irrregardless", if it were actually a word, would then be misspelled. :wink:
Irregardlessly.... always change all of your fluids and filters at least as often as recommended by the manufacturer. Don't skimp on not changing a filter every other time or something like that. Who would do that, anyway? I think someone is just trying to pull on our big dicks.....
Just do it or you'll find out what the true cost of not following the manufacturers recommendations are.......like maybe needing a new $5,000.00+ engine?
Just do it or you'll find out what the true cost of not following the manufacturers recommendations are.......like maybe needing a new $5,000.00+ engine?
Rikter8
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One Important thing to note....
Jackstands are made to re-inforce the vehicle frame while it is in service or in the air.
Invest in a solid pair of Vehicle Ramps that you drive up. Then put a large brick or wheel chuck behind the rear wheels (Or front depending on what your doing). That way the vehicle wont roll down.
IF you dont have the Vehicle sitting flat on the jackstands, they MAY slip out from under you...crushing you under the car.
Dexcool - Long life coolant is actually quite harsh on seals, and it doesn't cool as well as the good ol fashioned Green Eth. glyclol.
I've found the Prestone "All Makes All Models" Yellow Antifreeze works excellently, and cools better than both. (DONT mix Green with Pink Dex-Cool...it forms Jelly which clogs your radiator and reduces coolant life swiftly)
One other thing to note about these Oil Change Places.
If you EVER.....hear a speed wrench, or impact wrench taking out or putting in your oil plug, Swiftly take off the managers Head, and DEMAND a new oil pan be put on the car.
I'd say a good 80% of oil change places zip in and out the oil drain plug with an impact wrench, because its quick.
Well boys and girls, what happens is, the threads get stripped out on your oil pan, and then the fresh oil will end up under your parked car because of leakage. Then your engine burns up from no oil.
When it's stripped out...it means new oil pan.
Steel oil pans cost around $80 up, and Aluminum pans cost upwards of $200-300. (Plus installation)
Yes....they always try to get you for one thing or another.
It's really easy for any car owner to just make a mental note or use the manual to see when service intervals are.
Radiator hoses are simple to check. Run your hand around them. If they feel really soft, or if you feel bulges or see cracks, time to replace. (A good rule of thumb is to just replace them when you flush your radiator. They're generally cheap enough, and you have to pull the hoses off anyway to get all the coolant out.
Distributor caps and rotors are generally good for 70K-100K miles... I usually replace them with the plugs and wires at 70k miles.
Changing the O2 sensor (oxygen sensors) at around 100K miles helps to keep your gas mileage high, and your car running clean. (The O2 sensor Smells the amount of fuel your burning, rich or lean. If its too rich, it tells the computer to lean it out, saving more fuel.) If the O2 sensor is all carboned up, it cant sense the fuel mixture properly, causing a lean condition - which could burn valves, piston heads, or a too rich condition causing poor fuel economy, catalyst damage, and fouling of plugs.
C
Jackstands are made to re-inforce the vehicle frame while it is in service or in the air.
Invest in a solid pair of Vehicle Ramps that you drive up. Then put a large brick or wheel chuck behind the rear wheels (Or front depending on what your doing). That way the vehicle wont roll down.
IF you dont have the Vehicle sitting flat on the jackstands, they MAY slip out from under you...crushing you under the car.
Dexcool - Long life coolant is actually quite harsh on seals, and it doesn't cool as well as the good ol fashioned Green Eth. glyclol.
I've found the Prestone "All Makes All Models" Yellow Antifreeze works excellently, and cools better than both. (DONT mix Green with Pink Dex-Cool...it forms Jelly which clogs your radiator and reduces coolant life swiftly)
One other thing to note about these Oil Change Places.
If you EVER.....hear a speed wrench, or impact wrench taking out or putting in your oil plug, Swiftly take off the managers Head, and DEMAND a new oil pan be put on the car.
I'd say a good 80% of oil change places zip in and out the oil drain plug with an impact wrench, because its quick.
Well boys and girls, what happens is, the threads get stripped out on your oil pan, and then the fresh oil will end up under your parked car because of leakage. Then your engine burns up from no oil.
When it's stripped out...it means new oil pan.
Steel oil pans cost around $80 up, and Aluminum pans cost upwards of $200-300. (Plus installation)
Yes....they always try to get you for one thing or another.
It's really easy for any car owner to just make a mental note or use the manual to see when service intervals are.
Radiator hoses are simple to check. Run your hand around them. If they feel really soft, or if you feel bulges or see cracks, time to replace. (A good rule of thumb is to just replace them when you flush your radiator. They're generally cheap enough, and you have to pull the hoses off anyway to get all the coolant out.
Distributor caps and rotors are generally good for 70K-100K miles... I usually replace them with the plugs and wires at 70k miles.
Changing the O2 sensor (oxygen sensors) at around 100K miles helps to keep your gas mileage high, and your car running clean. (The O2 sensor Smells the amount of fuel your burning, rich or lean. If its too rich, it tells the computer to lean it out, saving more fuel.) If the O2 sensor is all carboned up, it cant sense the fuel mixture properly, causing a lean condition - which could burn valves, piston heads, or a too rich condition causing poor fuel economy, catalyst damage, and fouling of plugs.
C
I recommend never changing the oil. The engine will start using oil as it wears out, so just add a quart every 1,000 miles or so when the level goes down. Change the filter every 25,000 miles if you're bored. There's no point in having a pristine engine when the body finally rusts out.
Changing the spark plug wires is a complete waste unless there is a definite problem with them.
At 100,000 miles check the brushes in the alternator. They usually wear out shortly after that and mechanics will want to put in a new $200+ alternator rather than just replace the $20 brushes.
Replace the timing belt at the recommended interval, but don't take the heads off (like someone suggested) unless they are leaking. That is very expensive.
And whatever you do, don't take better care of you car then your own body. That's just silly.
Changing the spark plug wires is a complete waste unless there is a definite problem with them.
At 100,000 miles check the brushes in the alternator. They usually wear out shortly after that and mechanics will want to put in a new $200+ alternator rather than just replace the $20 brushes.
Replace the timing belt at the recommended interval, but don't take the heads off (like someone suggested) unless they are leaking. That is very expensive.
And whatever you do, don't take better care of you car then your own body. That's just silly.
Over 7
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And that's just silly!:wink:
My Mercedes has an internal oil sensor that monitors the resistisify ? of the oil as well as a laser that sees how dirty. It usually recommends via dashboard signal an oil/filter change of the Mobil1 at around 10-12,000 miles.
I change the oil/filter on my Dodge diesel at 5/6000 but on the Cobra, because I drive it hard, every 1000 or so. Always change the filter at every oil change, as the residual oil in the filter will contaminate the new oil with all the impurities it has taken out. The bypass mentioned earlier will only come int play if there are a lot of sludge or particulate mater collecting in the filter-which is eliminated if you change the oil and filter regularly. Oil & filter at recommended intervales or more often are much less expensive than a new engine. I generally get over 500,000 miles on an engine and have yet to have to replace one.
Funny no one has mentioned pouring some oil in the new oil filter before installing it. Good idea, yes?
The Car Talk guys (NPR weekends) have said that changing your oil every 6 months should be sufficient for most uses. Clearly, people who drive their vehicles hard need to adjust that schedule.
Some garages/oil change places won't touch your car if you haven't changed your oil in over 6 months. I guess there is some sort of liability they're avoiding. Like engine seizing.
Kevin
Subaru driver who can't touch much on his engine without advanced electronics
The Car Talk guys (NPR weekends) have said that changing your oil every 6 months should be sufficient for most uses. Clearly, people who drive their vehicles hard need to adjust that schedule.
Some garages/oil change places won't touch your car if you haven't changed your oil in over 6 months. I guess there is some sort of liability they're avoiding. Like engine seizing.
Kevin
Subaru driver who can't touch much on his engine without advanced electronics
Over 7, you are right, but I once had a cheap car with 200,000+ miles that leaked 1 quart of oil every 500 miles. It wasn't worth changing the oil because I was constantly adding new oil, and I was planning on getting another car in a year or two, so it wasn't worth fixing the leaks.
So really people should take into account the overall value of the car when deciding how much maintenance to do. It's worth keeping a nice Mercedes in great condition, but not a cheap, older car that's already falling apart.
And I do find it silly if someone that smokes two packs of cigarettes a day tells me how careful they are maintaining their car. (No one here, but someone I knew in the past.)
So really people should take into account the overall value of the car when deciding how much maintenance to do. It's worth keeping a nice Mercedes in great condition, but not a cheap, older car that's already falling apart.
And I do find it silly if someone that smokes two packs of cigarettes a day tells me how careful they are maintaining their car. (No one here, but someone I knew in the past.)
transformer_99
Experimental Member
"Jackstands are made to re-inforce the vehicle frame while it is in service or in the air."
The frame is what it is, jackstands don't reinforce the frame. They simply suspend the frame in the air properly when placed at the proper reinforced frame locations. They also provide a more stable lift when properly used in the proper locations/points.
The frame is what it is, jackstands don't reinforce the frame. They simply suspend the frame in the air properly when placed at the proper reinforced frame locations. They also provide a more stable lift when properly used in the proper locations/points.
- VeeP,
As I said earlier in this thread, you'd be better off doing this the other way around.
Another reason one does this is so you can be assured of getting a good seal between the rubber gasket and the filter adapter. Mashing dry rubber against metal may cause it to tear, resulting in a leak.
